TL;DR - types of wood at a glance
All timber falls into three groups: hardwoods (from broadleaved, mostly deciduous trees), softwoods (from conifers) and engineered wood (man-made boards and beams). The words hardwood and softwood describe the tree, not how hard the wood is - balsa is a hardwood and one of the softest timbers there is. What actually decides a wood's use are four properties: density, natural durability, grain and workability. This guide explains each group, compares the common UK species in a table, and shows how to choose the right one.
Walk into any timber yard and the choice can feel overwhelming: hundreds of species, several names for what looks like the same board, and prices from a few pounds to hundreds per cubic metre. Yet almost every timber you will meet fits into one of three simple families. Understand those, and the handful of properties that separate one wood from another, and you can choose confidently for any job. This guide is built on the 655-species wood database behind Anyonewood.
The three types of wood
1. Hardwoods
Hardwoods come from angiosperms - broadleaved trees such as oak, ash, beech and walnut, most of which are deciduous and drop their leaves in winter. They generally grow more slowly than conifers, which tends to make their timber denser, stronger and more figured, and they carry the widest range of colours and grain patterns. Hardwoods dominate furniture, flooring, high-quality joinery, boatbuilding and any job where appearance and durability matter. Common UK hardwoods include European oak, ash, beech, walnut, maple, cherry and elm, alongside imported species such as iroko, sapele and teak.
2. Softwoods
Softwoods come from gymnosperms - conifers such as pine, spruce, cedar, larch and fir, which keep their needles year round and grow quickly and straight. That speed makes them cheaper and more plentiful, and their long, even fibres cut cleanly. Softwoods account for the great majority of the world's construction timber: wall framing, roof trusses, cladding, decking and the bulk of carcassing and joinery-grade stock. Common softwoods include European redwood (the joinery "pine"), spruce (whitewood), cedar, Douglas fir and larch.
The names mislead: hardwood does not mean hard, and softwood does not mean soft. The split is botanical. Yew is a softwood yet harder than many hardwoods; balsa is a hardwood you can dent with a fingernail. Always judge a board on its measured properties, not its family name.
3. Engineered wood
Engineered, or manufactured, wood is made by bonding smaller pieces of real timber - veneers, strands, chips or fibres - into large, stable boards and beams. Because the natural grain is broken up and re-laid, engineered products move less with humidity, come in big consistent sizes, and put timber to use that would otherwise be waste. The main types are plywood (glued veneers), MDF (compressed fibres), OSB and chipboard (strands and particles), and glulam and LVL (laminated structural beams). Engineered timber is not a lesser choice - it carries much of modern construction and cabinetry precisely because it behaves predictably.
The four properties that actually matter
- Density - how much the wood weighs for its size, in kilograms per cubic metre. Denser timber is generally stronger and harder-wearing, but heavier to handle and harder to work.
- Natural durability - the heartwood's resistance to rot and insect attack, graded 1 (very durable) to 5 (not durable) under the EN 350 standard. It decides whether a wood can sit outdoors untreated.
- Grain and figure - the pattern and direction of the fibres, which drive both looks and how the wood behaves under a tool. Our guide to figure in wood covers this in depth.
- Workability and movement - how easily the wood cuts, planes and glues, and how much it shrinks or swells as its moisture content changes with the seasons.
Common wood types compared
The table sets typical, indicative figures side by side. Density and durability vary within a species and with growing conditions, so treat these as a starting point and check the linked fact sheet for the authoritative data on any timber.
| Wood | Group | Density (kg/m3, approx.) | Natural durability | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| European oak | Hardwood | 670-720 | Durable | Furniture, flooring, joinery, structural beams |
| Ash | Hardwood | 680-750 | Non-durable | Tool handles, sports goods, steam-bent work |
| Beech | Hardwood | 700-720 | Non-durable | Furniture, worktops, turnery |
| American walnut | Hardwood | 630-660 | Moderately durable | Fine furniture, veneers |
| Iroko | Hardwood | 640-660 | Very durable | Exterior joinery, worktops, decking |
| Sapele | Hardwood | 600-640 | Moderately durable | Doors, windows, interior joinery |
| Teak | Hardwood | 650-670 | Very durable | Boatbuilding, garden furniture |
| European redwood (pine) | Softwood | 500-520 | Non-durable, treatable | Construction, joinery, mouldings |
| Spruce (whitewood) | Softwood | 400-450 | Non-durable | Framing, roofing, packaging |
| Western red cedar | Softwood | 370-390 | Durable | Cladding, shingles, greenhouses |
| Douglas fir | Softwood | 500-530 | Moderately durable | Structural timber, joinery, veneer |
| Larch | Softwood | 500-590 | Moderately durable | Cladding, decking, fencing |
Hardwood or softwood - which should you choose?
- Outdoors, untreated: pick a naturally durable species such as teak, iroko or western red cedar.
- Structural framing and roofs: treated softwood - European redwood or spruce - is strong enough, economical and easy to source graded.
- Furniture and fine joinery: a stable hardwood such as oak, ash or walnut rewards the extra cost in looks and longevity.
- Large flat panels: engineered board (plywood or MDF) stays flatter than a wide solid-wood panel.
- Painted trim and mouldings: a fine, even-grained timber takes paint best and holds a crisp profile.
Frequently asked questions
Is hardwood always harder than softwood?
No. The terms are botanical, not a measure of hardness. Balsa is classed as a hardwood but is extremely soft, while yew is a softwood that is harder than several hardwoods. Check a species' measured density and hardness rather than its family.
What is the most durable wood for outdoors?
Among the common species here, teak and iroko lead for untreated outdoor use, with western red cedar and European oak also weathering well. As a rule, a natural durability rating of class 1 or 2 means a timber can be used outdoors without preservative treatment.
Which wood is best for beginners?
Inexpensive, forgiving softwoods such as European redwood are the easiest to cut and join while you learn, and mistakes cost little. Pale, even-grained hardwoods are a good next step before tackling dense or interlocked timbers.
How do I know a wood is sustainably sourced?
Look for FSC or PEFC chain-of-custody certification from your supplier. Our guide to identifying FSC certification and sustainable wood labels explains what to check.
Explore the wood database
Every species named above links to its full fact sheet - durability class, density, workability, movement and typical uses. For the wider picture, browse the A to Z of timbers, read about defects in wood and how timber changes colour with weathering, or brush up on terminology in the glossary of wood terms.
Need a specific timber matched or made?
Anyonewood is a free reference library. When you know the wood you want and need it supplied, cut or matched to an existing profile, WoodUChoose connects you with UK timber specialists who quote for made-to-match mouldings and custom timber.
